The Maison Code III
The Hidden Love Letter of a Modern Maison.
Part III
That night, I walked into CORE by Clare Smyth.
Not dramatically.
Not with expectation.
Just quietly — as if following a line I had already crossed before.
A soft light stood at the door, touching the old white bricks of Notting Hill.
Inside, wood leaned into ivory.
Copper softened into green.
Nothing here asked to be noticed.
Everything here had already decided what it was.
I tasted the Isle of Harris scallop tartare.
Then the clear sea-vegetable consommé.
It arrived almost weightless — and then stayed.
Delicate, but insistent.
The broth was pale green, translucent, like the first light of morning slipping through London fog, moving past glass, resting briefly on stone that had survived centuries.
At the table beside mine sat men and women dressed with precision.
Not excessive.
Not careless.
Their movements were elegant, practiced.
Their distance intentional.
We were not part of the same room.
We were simply sharing the same coordinates.
I smelled the sea.
Then wood.
Then the faint mineral cold of old walls — stone worn smooth by history, interrupted by the clean reflection of modern glass.
For the first time in a long while, imbalance did not feel dangerous.
It felt instructive.
Later, I went to CSM.
I moved in and out of concrete buildings every day, surrounded by designers who knew how to think with their hands.
I walked through Soho.
Into old Maison studios.
The entrance halls were small.
Compressed.
Yohji Yamamoto once described this space as the fold between pleats —
the place you must press yourself into before you are allowed to enter.
It felt exactly like that.
On the wall hung unfinished fabrics:
ramie,
stone-washed linen,
and a piece of organically certified raw silk.
Material that had not yet agreed to become clothing.
Material that still remembered where it came from.
MAISON
The first time I truly entered Maison, it felt like unfolding fabric without markings.
No chalk lines.
No pattern pieces.
No promise of symmetry.
London did not explain itself.
It never does.
So I used my body as the needle.
I walked its streets as seams.
I learned where the tension held, where it released.
This city was not flat cloth.
It was folded.
Neighbourhoods rose unexpectedly.
Wind cut diagonally.
Traffic systems contradicted themselves.
Buildings made decisions without asking permission.
It was both precise and unresolved.
Both disciplined and careless.
Symmetrical — until it wasn’t.
Structured — until it broke.
I recognised this logic.
Not from architecture.
From pattern-making.
From Maison paper prototypes.
From Yohji Yamamoto’s refusal to dress the body in order to control it.
The goal was never concealment.
The goal was relationship.
Between body and space.
Between movement and restraint.
I loved the cold here.
The dry winter air felt like the reverse side of wool — rough, honest, unpolished.
The river wind on the South Bank carried something almost sweet.
Mint, perhaps.
Chocolate, briefly.
Railway lines in the East End cut through the city like bias seams —
turning disorder into direction.
At night, London lined itself in deep navy.
Buildings glowed softly, gold without excess, like a sunset mistaken for dawn.
_____________⬇️____________
L S DearF about us
If I imagine womenswear,
How does she want to meet herself?
Not how she wants to be seen.
Not what she is expected to become.
Softness is allowed.
Confidence is allowed.
Desire is allowed — quietly.
If I imagine menswear, I ask something else entirely:
How does he enter a room without speaking —
and still alter the atmosphere?
Distance without cruelty.
Control without display.
The kind of authority that does not compete.
Fabric must breathe.
Structure must decide.
Seams, bindings, linings, closures —
nothing accidental, nothing excessive.
The body does not need to suffer to be convincing.
Discipline is not the same as denial.
I look for materials that are soft, but resolved.
Organic, but precise.
Clothing that allows the body to rest inside itself —
and still be unmistakably present.
A professor once asked me about the relationship between material and temperament.
I asked if they believed in the Five Elements.
Not as substances.
As directions.
Metal — restraint. Clarity. A blade that does not announce itself.
Wood — growth. Pressure. The insistence of becoming.
Water — concealment. Sensation. The movement of memory.
Fire — transformation. Expression. The risk of visibility.
Earth — holding. Warmth. Trust.
None of us carry just one.
We are negotiations.
Eastern philosophy does not ask who is right.
Only what is balanced.
Only what flows.
The Five Elements return us to nature the way good clothing does —
quietly correcting the way energy moves.
We are entering a decade ruled by fire.
Speed.
Image.
Language.
Technology.
But fire cannot exist alone.
It must land.
It must be held.
The body has always known this.
The era is only beginning to remember.
When we look at the stars, we are looking backward.
Light travels for billions of years before it reaches us —
fractured time, flickering.
When we lower our gaze and touch the ground,
we meet pressure, stillness, and heat.
Crystals form there —
not quickly, not dramatically —
but with patience.
Structure under pressure.
Beauty without urgency.
They resonate with us.
The way scent does.
The way fabric does.
Rose quartz softens distance.
Amethyst steadies intuition.
Citrine sharpens focus.
Aquamarine.
Obsidian.
Smoky quartz.
Clear quartz.
Each carries a different frequency.
The body always knows which one to reach for.
London is earth holding metal.
Contained.
Layered.
Unyielding beneath restraint.
History and modernity coexist without explanation.
London does not persuade.
It simply endures.
Its elegance is structural —
measured, deliberate, immune to time.
New York is metal holding fire.
Paris, wood holding fire.
Each city negotiates differently.
So do we.
Everyone needs a luck that fits.
This is where mine aligned.
Since DearF London Maison.
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